|
BODRUM
The ancient
city of Bodrum (Halicarnassos, Halicarnassus) is thought to have
been founded around 1,000 BC by Dorian settlers from Greece. Later
the city became part of the Hexapolic Union, known as the Dorian
league. According to Herodotus, however, it was expelled when a
Halicarnassan contestant in a sporting contest insisted on keeping
the trophy he had been awarded, instead of dedicating it to God
Apollo.

The city was
captured by the Lydians in the first half of the 6th century BC
and then by the Persians in 546 BC after which it was ruled by the
Satrapy of Saird. In 386 BC, the Persians took complete control
of the Carian region (southwest Anatolia). Then in 377 BC Mausolos,
the most famous of the Carian satrapies, took control of the region.
He ordered the construction of many cities and moved his capital
from Milas to Halikarnassos. Mausolos enlarged his new capital by
bringing in people from other cities in the region and constructing
new walls, palaces, theaters and temples.
However, the
most important building in the city is/was the monumental tomb constructed
for him by his wife, Artemisia II, and from which we get the word
'mausoluem'. Construction lasted five years and at the time of its
completion in 340 BC, it ranked among the Seven Wonders of the World.
After the rule
of Mausolos and his family, in 334 BC, Halicarnassos was conquered
by Alexander the Great which later became a naval base for the Lagos
Dynasty of Egypt. In 192 BC, the city became a Roman colony, and
in 88 BC was briefly ruled by the Pontus Kingdom.
Halicarnassos
fell to the Seljuk Turks in 1071 AD, and it was with the permission
of Sultan Celebi Mehmet that the Knights of Rhodes were able to
construct Bodrum Castle ? the Castle of St. Peter. The castle, with
its English, French and German towers is today the symbol of the
town.
The city came
under Ottoman rule in 1522 AD when Suleyman the Magnificent captured
Rhodes and forced the knights to move to Malta. Known as 'Petrion'
after the Castle of St. Peter, this later became in Turkish 'Bodrum',
the name by which the town is known today.
The Mausoleum
is Bodrums oldest antiquity and was built by Artemisia II in honour
of her husband King Mausolos. It became one of the wonders of the
ancient world, Mausoleum still is the general term for a large tomb.
The entire structure stood at over 50 meters in height. The first
reliefs from the Mausoleum reached the British Museum in London
in 1846, these included frescos and other objects.
The Myndus
gate
Located on the west side of Bodrum, this is one of the two entrances
of ancient Halicarnassus. It was part of the towns wall. The gate
is named after the place Myndos because it faces the ancient Myndos
place (now Gümüslük).
A big handshake
should go first to the companies Ericsson and Turkcell, who sponsored
the excavation of Bodrum's town walls, which are a remarkable example
of ancient Western Anatolia architecture.
Only some parts
of the city walls remained until today. An important part of the
town wall was the Myndos Gate where the soldiers of Alexander ('the
great') had a hard time to come into the town of Halicarnassus in
333 BC. After they captured the city they destroyed all buildings
except the Mausoleum, which was one of the seven wonders of the
ancient world.
Extensive excavation
and restoration has been done by the archeologists to bring this
spot from ancient times to be better realized now. It is expected
that the whole restoration of the town wall of nearly 4,5 kilometers
will take four to five years to complete.
According to
Arrianus, who describes this gate and and the siege of Alexander
the Great in 334, this gate had originally three towers (that's
why it was described as 'Tripollion'). It was also mentioned that
in front of the gate was a ditch of 8 meters depth and 15 meters
long. The middle part of the gate is totally destroyed now but ruins
from the two other parts still exist and consist of huge and heavy
square stones. Tombs were found here and opened by Newton in the
last century. They dated back to Hellenistic and Roman times and
were made from burned clay.
Here - as nearly
everywhere in Turkey Archeologists expect to find more remains underneath
the rubble of 17 centuries
The most prominent
feature of Bodrum is the castle of St. Peter.
The castle's origins date back to the knights of St. John.
This group of expatriates began in the 11th century with a church
and hospital in Jerusalem. Although belonging to he Catholic religion
care was denied to no-one.
When the knights arrived they instructed their builders to remove
all usable materials from the tomb of King Mausolos as the castle
construction began in the 1400's.
The knights
refered to the town as Mesy not knowing that they where in the ancient
Halicarnassus. The fortress became known as the Castle of St. Peter,
the Liberator, it served as the sole place of refugee for all Christians
on the West Coast of Asia during the time of the crusades. For over
a century the castle served as a stronghold in the knights community.
Under Turkish
care the castle has undergone several uses including being a military
base, a prison and a public bath. But now it is one of the finest
museums in this region see also video.
The Amphi-theatre
The theatre is another witness to the great past of Bodrum. Situated
in the hillside over looking Bodrum this theatre whose capacity
is around 13.000 was built during te Carian reign in the Hellenistic
age (330 - 30 BC.). The theatre consists of three different sections:
a place for the audience, a place for an orchestra and the stage.
It became an open-air museum after the excavations in 1973.
A contemporary
Bodrum Figure: "Fisherman of Halicarnassus"
Cevat Sakir Kabaagaçli, the scion of a prominent Ottoman family
and Oxford don, was convicted in 1925 of some obscure crime and
exiled to Bodrum. Bodrum was then considered beyond the pale of
the civilized world, a simple and poor place that eked out a meager
existence from the sea by fishing and sponge-diving. The journey
was long and arduous, with the shadows of bandits lurking in the
hills; the last stretch of the route from Milas was passable only
on foot and muleback.
Cevat Sakir, who was to become the great raconteur of Turkish literature
under the name "Fisherman of Halicarnassus," tells the story of
his forced march in his memoirs. On a curve of the road, he reminisces,
the sea "cracked upon the horizon without warning like a vast blue
thundering infinity." The sea dominated the town, where it "infiltrated
through alleys and courtyards with a shimmering transparent light."
It "sparkled to an incomprehensible depth full of yearning and beauty
and terror." The air was "dry and bright as if lit by an inner light."
The town was "modest and dazzling white with straight lines that
cut the sky's blue with knife-like precision." People lived close
to the basics of existence with simple direct passions and the distilled
wisdom of countless civilizations.
The exile fell in love with Bodrum and elected to remain there for
most of the rest of his life. He became the town's grand old man,
introduced new fishing techniques, planted trees (the palms lining
the quay are his) and above all told the fantastic tales of an ancient
Aegean civilization and of the passionate, broad-spirited, fatalistic
people of the sea. Two generations of Bodrum's youth grew up under
his spell.
In the early 60s a group of the Fisherman's disciples from Istanbul
began to visit him in Bodrum in search of aesthetic ecstasy and
spiritual purification. They included a classical scholar, the Turkish
translator of Homer, two prominent painters, a political philosopher,
a socialist theorizer. They initiated the tradition of the "Blue
Voyage" sailing into the Aegean for a few weeks on a simple boat
and confronting nature with as few amenities as possible. The late
60s, with its culture of the rejection of middle-class values, swelled
their ranks. This was a time of staying in fishermen's houses and
paying for room and board with a bottle of raki.
In the 70s, members of the middle class who were bold enough to
experiment with the unconventional began to spend vacations in Bodrum.
The turning point arrived when the singer Zeki Müren, the ultimate
impersonation of the Turkish kitsch, announced his decision to settle
in Bodrum. Around 1985, the number of tourists in town for the first
time exceeded that of the native. Bodrum became the principal vacation
haven of western Turkey, with all the conveniences and curses that
ensue.
He also asked for the return of the Mausoleum parts to Bodrum in
a letter adressed to the Queen of England, saying that such exquisite
works of art were not finding their true place under the foggy and
grey sky of London. The letter he received in response stated as
following: "Thank you for reminding us of the matter, We have painted
the ceiling where Mausolos and the Mausoleum is located in blue."
|